Tsoai, the Speaking Rock: Memory and Landscape in N. Scott Momaday

When the earth becomes story, and story, a second skin

Tsoai, the Speaking Rock: Memory and Landscape in N. Scott Momaday
Guo Xi — Old Trees, Level Distance (c. 1080). Metropolitan Museum of Art, CC0.
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The journey as an act of birth

For N. Scott Momaday, Kiowa history begins with movement: a migration that carries them from the headwaters of the Yellowstone to the Wichita Mountains, passing through the Black Hills. This is not merely a geographical shift, but a profound transformation. Along the way, they adopt horses, a spirituality of the Plains, and a new relationship with open space. Their alliance with the Comanches establishes them as a power in the southern Plains for a century. Yet beyond the facts, this journey is above all the crystallization of an idea: how a people conceives of itself. Momaday insists on this point—the idea, as old as their language, persists despite the erosion of time. The stories that carry it—myths, legends, orally transmitted knowledge—have become fragmented, but the essence remains intact. Each time imagination takes hold of them, the journey begins anew, as vivid as in its first telling.

What strikes one is how this narrative unfolds. It is not a linear chronology, but a total experience, where historical memory and legendary memory intertwine, personal recollections and cultural inheritance merge. The landscape plays a central role: it is not a mere backdrop, but a full participant. The mountains, canyons, and plains are not inert places, but spaces charged with meaning, where each element evokes a bygone era and a human presence that endures.

English

Although my grandmother lived out her long life in the shadow of Rainy Mountain, the immense landscape of the continental interior lay like memory in her blood.

English

Though my grandmother spent her long life in the shadow of Rainy Mountain, the vastness of the continent’s inner landscape lay in her memory like blood.

N. Scott Momaday, The Way to Rainy Mountain , book The Way to Rainy Mountain  — ed. after the French translation, University of New Mexico Press, 1969 (paperback 1976), trans. viasophia

The rock that carries a story

Among the places marking this journey, Tsoai—the named rock—holds a singular place. For Momaday, it is not a mere geographical landmark, but a story in itself. The founding myth it evokes tells of a man, starving and desperate, who encounters a mysterious being in a canyon. This creature, half-deer and half-bird, offers him an alliance: in exchange for his companionship, it promises to feed the Kiowas. Thus Tai-me, a sacred figure, enters their history. From that moment, the Kiowas are no longer merely a people struggling to survive; they become a warrior society, spiritual and bound to the sun.

This tale is not just a legend. It is a way of understanding the world, a key to grasping how a people defines itself through its relationships with the land, animals, and invisible forces. The rock Tsoai is not an abstract symbol: it is the anchor of a collective identity, a place where memory, language, and spirituality intersect. For Momaday, this rock is tangible proof that history is not only written in books, but etched into the landscape itself.

Memory as a living language

The power of The Way to Rainy Mountain lies in this idea: memory is not mere recollection, but a language in motion. Momaday observes that the Kiowa stories, passed down orally, have suffered the ravages of time. Yet despite their fragmentation, they retain an undiminished force. Each telling is a recreation, an act of imagination that revives the past. The journey to Rainy Mountain is not a pilgrimage to a fixed place, but an ever-renewed exploration, where the landscape becomes the medium for a memory constantly reinvented.

This conception of memory as a living narrative has a deeply personal dimension. Momaday evokes his grandmother, who never left the shadow of Rainy Mountain, yet whose spirit traveled through the stories of the Crows or the Black Hills. For him, these tales are not distant fables, but lived truths, as real as the mountains he traversed. In undertaking his own journey, he seeks to see what his grandmother beheld with the eyes of the mind: a world where every place is a page of history, and every story, a part of the landscape.

The landscape as a mirror of the soul

The bond between the Kiowa people and their territory runs so deep it becomes almost organic. Momaday describes the Yellowstone landscapes as a region of deep lakes and dark forests, where the horizon always seems near, as if enclosed by the walls of the mountains. Yet despite this beauty, he feels a kind of suffocation: the freedom he finds there is that of eagles, not of men. This observation reveals a broader truth: the landscape is not neutral. It bears the traces of the lives that have crossed it, the dreams that have flourished there, the struggles that have unfolded.

For the Kiowas, the land is not a possession to be owned, but a partner to be heard. Their migration, their alliance with Tai-me, their relationship with the Plains—all of this unfolds within a vision where the human and the non-human are not separate, but engaged in an ongoing dialogue. The rock Tsoai is not an object, but an interlocutor. In this sense, Kiowa memory is not an archive, but a continuing conversation with the world.

Re-enchanting history

What Momaday offers is a way of re-enchanting history—not by romanticizing it, but by returning it to its most concrete dimension: that of a story unfolding in space and time, carried by voices that echo across generations. The journey to Rainy Mountain is not a quest for nostalgia, but an act of resistance. By telling these stories, by anchoring them in the landscape, Momaday restores a voice to those who have been silenced.

Memory, for him, is not a burden, but a force. It is what allows one to reclaim an identity threatened by oblivion. In this sense, The Way to Rainy Mountain is far more than a book: it is an invitation to see the world differently, to listen to the stories carried by stones, rivers, and winds. And perhaps, through them, to rediscover a part of ourselves we had forgotten.

Sources cited

  • N. Scott Momaday, The Way to Rainy Mountain, ed. University of New Mexico Press, 1969 (éd. de poche 1976), trans. texte original anglais ; rendu français maison.